How to Build Bookends
01Overview
Bookends are a simple, satisfying woodworking project that even beginners and kids can complete with minimal tools and materials. They serve a practical purpose—keeping books upright and organized—while also adding a touch of handmade charm to a shelf or desk. Because bookends are small and don't need to support heavy loads, they're an excellent way to practice basic woodworking skills like measuring, cutting, sanding, and finishing. You can make a pair in an afternoon, and the design can be as plain or as decorative as you like.
The core idea is to create an L-shaped support that holds books in place. The vertical part presses against the books, while the horizontal base sits under them, using the weight of the books to keep everything steady. You can build a simple right-angle bookend from two pieces of hardwood, or get creative with shapes, angles, or even a single block with a slot cut into it. This guide focuses on the classic two-piece design, which is forgiving for beginners and easy to customize.
Because this is a beginner and kid-friendly project, we'll emphasize safety and simplicity. You'll learn how to select suitable hardwood, make straight cuts, assemble the pieces securely, and apply a protective finish. The steps are straightforward, but take your time and enjoy the process. Before you know it, you'll have a functional and attractive pair of bookends that you can use or give as a gift.
02Materials and wood to use
For bookends, hardwood is the best choice because it is durable, holds screws well, and takes a finish beautifully. Softwoods like pine can work, but they dent easily and may not withstand the pressure of heavy books over time. Common hardwoods include oak, maple, cherry, walnut, and ash. You don't need large boards—scraps or offcuts from other projects are perfect. Choose a piece that is straight, flat, and free of major defects like cracks or knots that could weaken the joint. The thickness can vary; a thicker piece will be more stable, but adjust to your space and the size of your books.
You'll need two pieces per bookend: one for the base and one for the upright. The base should be long enough to provide stability—typically a bit longer than the depth of the books you plan to hold. The upright should be tall enough to support the books, but not so tall that it becomes top-heavy. A good rule of thumb is to make the upright about two-thirds the height of the books. You can choose a length that fits your shelf and book collection. For a pair, cut four pieces total: two bases and two uprights.
In addition to wood, you'll need sandpaper in a few grits (like medium and fine), wood glue, and screws or nails. If you prefer a hidden joint, you can use dowels or biscuits, but screws are simplest for beginners. A generic finish—such as oil, wax, or polyurethane—will protect the wood. Avoid using any finish that is not food-safe if the bookends might be chewed by pets or children, though that's unlikely. Always read the manufacturer's instructions for any adhesive or finish you use.
03Tools you'll need
The tools for this project are basic and likely already in your workshop. You'll need a saw to cut the wood to size. A handsaw or a small power saw like a jigsaw or circular saw will work, but if you use a power tool, always follow the manufacturer's safety instructions and wear appropriate safety gear, including eye and ear protection. A miter box or a square can help you make straight cuts. For smoothing edges, a sanding block or an orbital sander is useful, but you can also sand by hand. A drill or a screwdriver is needed for driving screws, and a hammer if you use nails. A tape measure, pencil, and combination square are essential for marking and measuring.
If you plan to use dowels or biscuits for joinery, you'll need a doweling jig or a biscuit joiner, but these are optional. For clamping, a few bar clamps or spring clamps will hold the pieces together while the glue dries. A wood file or rasp can help shape and round over edges. You'll also want a damp cloth for wiping excess glue and a clean brush for applying finish. Safety equipment is non-negotiable: safety glasses, hearing protection when using power tools, and a dust mask when sanding. If you're unsure about using any tool, ask a professional or an experienced woodworker for guidance.
Remember that you don't need a fully equipped shop. Many of these tools can be borrowed or rented from your hardware store or a local makerspace. For kids, adult supervision is required at all times, especially when using sharp tools or power equipment. Keep your work area well-lit and organized, and unplug power tools when not in use. A stable workbench or a sturdy table with a non-slip surface will make the job safer and easier.
04Step-by-step build
Start by deciding on the dimensions of your bookends. Measure the height and depth of the books you want to hold, then add a little extra for stability. For the base, cut a piece that is slightly longer than the depth of the books. For the upright, cut a piece that is about two-thirds the height of the books. You can make both bookends identical or vary them slightly for a custom look. Use a pencil and square to mark your cut lines clearly. If you're using a power saw, clamp the wood securely and follow the manufacturer's safety instructions. Make slow, steady cuts to avoid splintering.
Once all four pieces are cut, sand the surfaces and edges. Start with a medium grit to remove saw marks, then progress to a finer grit for a smooth finish. Round over the front edges of the uprights and the top edges of the bases slightly—this reduces the chance of splinters and gives a softer look. Wipe off dust with a tack cloth or a damp cloth. Now assemble each bookend. Apply a bead of wood glue along the edge of the base where the upright will sit. Position the upright so it forms a right angle with the base. If you're using screws, pre-drill holes to prevent splitting, then drive screws from the bottom of the base into the upright. Countersink the screw heads so they sit below the surface. Wipe away any squeezed-out glue with a damp cloth.
Check that the angle is square using a combination square or a try square. If it's not square, adjust before the glue dries. Clamp the pieces together and let the glue cure according to the manufacturer's instructions. Once dry, remove the clamps and fill any screw holes with wood filler if desired. Sand the filled areas smooth. Your bookends are now ready for finishing. If you want a more decorative look, you can add a chamfer or roundover to the edges with a router or sanding block. Just be sure to keep the bottom flat so the bookends sit steady.
05Finishing and protection
Finishing is what gives your bookends a polished, professional look and protects them from moisture, dirt, and wear. Before applying any finish, make sure the wood is clean and free of dust. Vacuum or wipe with a tack cloth. If you sanded to a fine grit, you might raise the grain slightly with a damp cloth, then sand lightly again once dry. This step ensures a smooth final surface. Choose a finish that suits your needs: oil-based finishes like linseed oil or tung oil penetrate the wood and enhance its natural grain, while film finishes like polyurethane or varnish sit on top and provide more protection. A simple wax finish is also an option for a low-sheen, natural look. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for application, drying time, and safety.
Apply the finish in a well-ventilated area, away from open flames. Use a clean brush, rag, or foam applicator. For oil finishes, apply a thin coat, let it soak in for a few minutes, then wipe off the excess. For film finishes, apply thin coats, sanding lightly between coats with a fine grit. Typically, two to three coats are enough for bookends, but adjust based on how much wear they'll get. Let each coat dry completely before applying the next. If you're making bookends for a child, consider a child-safe finish, though most cured finishes are safe once fully dry. Avoid using finishes that contain harsh solvents around kids.
After the final coat, let the finish cure fully—this can take several days for some products. Once cured, your bookends are ready to use. To maintain them, dust with a soft cloth and avoid prolonged exposure to water or direct sunlight. If the finish wears over time, you can lightly sand and apply another coat. Remember that the finish you choose can change the color of the wood, so test on a scrap piece first. With proper care, your handmade bookends will last for years.
06Common mistakes to avoid
One of the most common mistakes is making the bookends too small or too light. If the base is too short or the upright too thin, the bookends may tip over when holding heavy books. Always err on the side of a slightly larger base for stability. Another mistake is not squaring the joint. If the upright isn't at a perfect right angle to the base, the bookends will lean, and books may slide. Use a square to check the angle before the glue dries, and adjust as needed. Also, be careful not to overtighten clamps, which can dent the wood or squeeze out too much glue, weakening the joint.
Skipping pre-drilling when using screws is a frequent error. Hardwoods are prone to splitting, especially near the ends. Always pre-drill pilot holes slightly smaller than the screw diameter. Another issue is not sanding enough. Rough edges can snag book covers and are uncomfortable to handle. Take the time to sand progressively through the grits. When finishing, applying too thick a coat can lead to drips and uneven drying. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for thin coats. Also, don't rush the drying time between coats or before using the bookends. Patience ensures a durable finish.
Finally, avoid using wood that is warped or has large knots, as these can weaken the bookends or cause them to rock. If you're making this project with kids, ensure they understand the safety rules and are supervised. Don't let them use power tools without proper instruction and protective gear. If you're unsure about any step, ask a professional or consult a reliable woodworking resource. Remember, this is a learning project—mistakes are part of the process, and you can always make another pair.
07Frequently asked questions
Q: Can I use softwood like pine instead of hardwood? A: Yes, you can, but hardwood is more durable and will hold up better over time. Softwood may dent or compress under the weight of heavy books, and it doesn't hold screws as well. If you use softwood, consider making the pieces thicker for added strength.
Q: How do I make sure the bookends are heavy enough to hold large books? A: The weight of the books themselves helps keep the bookends in place, but you can increase stability by making the base longer and wider. You can also add a non-slip pad underneath the base, or rout a groove and insert a metal weight, though that's more advanced. For most home libraries, a well-proportioned wooden bookend is sufficient.
Q: Can kids help with this project? A: Absolutely! This is a great project for kids with adult supervision. Let them help with measuring, sanding, and applying finish. However, they should not use sharp tools or power tools without close supervision and proper safety gear. Always follow the manufacturer's safety instructions for any tool. If you're unsure, ask a professional for guidance.